Sunday, May 10, 2015


 What is Underlining?

Underlining is a layer of fabric that is cut closely to the main fabric of a garment. It is handled together with the fashion fabric as one piece during manufacturing. Underlining provides body and strength to a fabric that may otherwise be too sheer,weak or too drapey for the desired garment. Underlining can also be used in conjuction with full or partial lining.

Step 1. preshrink/pre-launder fabric for underlining.
(NOTE: This step is very important!!!)

- good choices for underlining include:
 good quality cotton batiste(lightweight fabrics including lightweight wool), cotton broadcloth(medium-heavy weight fabrics), silk organza.

Step 2. Trace and cut out fashion fabric pattern pieces. Read the threads article and adjust underlining for turn of cloth. Cut out underlining and hand baste to WS of fashion fabric.  Threads Magazine- understanding underlining

Step 3. Make all marks needed on underlining through all layers by using tailors tacks. (note: on the sew bussted video it shows the darts sewn together by hand basting.) another tecnique for marking the darts is to sew a row of basting stitch through the center line of the dart and to also mark the outside legs of the dart.

great video- Sew News- Decadses of Style Sewalong with Rhonda
(underlining pattern pieces)

Here's a good article on how to hand baste if you have never done it before!

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