Friday, October 24, 2014

1950's blouse review - McCall's 8831

This blouse has been as much about learning finer sewing skills as it has been about getting a new garment. I have been studying sewing for the past year and have decided I will continue my education next year as well.

The thing I have been continously bad at doing all year is inset corners. I tried doing about 10 samples of inset corners at the beginning of the year and didn't see much improvement and recently failed again when I tried to do them at my tailoring course.

Pattern :McCall's 8831
Year: 1952
Size: 36" Bust
         30" Waist
         40" Hip
Yardage: View A  35" Striped lengthways- 2 5/8 yards. 2.4m
                               39" 2 3/8 yards. 2.2m
                               45" 2 1/4 yards. 2.1m
Fabric Suggested: Broadcloth, Chambray, Gingham, Shantung, Pongee, Surah, Linen, Pique, Jersey, Crepes.
Fabric I used:  
Alterations to Pattern: SS were straightened and flared 1cm for fit and ease of 3OL. 1cm SA on collar and neckline. Hem 8mm 3OL turned and stitched through. Sleeves under stitched. SA on main garment and sleeves at armhole 1cm. Trimmed sleeve on main garment to 4mm and then under stitched main garment and top stitched sleeve SA over main garment for strength.

Prep: fused top face of collar, sleeve facing, front facings.
Unit assembly: sleeves + facing under stitched + pressed. collar stitched 3 sides @ 1cm trim to 6mm turn  + press. darts and tucks in front and same for back. 
Garment Assembly: Shoulder seams + SS press open. bag facing to hem. stay stitch to notch for collar and clip. hem. DO INSET CORNERS ACCURATELY. edge stitch and trim bottom SA top stitch neatly.  3OL armhole. sew ends of collar to double notches and check accuracy catching facing. clip and turn under SA and either slip stitch in place or pull 2mm down on previous stitching and catch in place by ditch stitching.


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